It’s believed that the ancient Polynesians (progenitors of Hawaii) started the act of surfing. The first written record was by Joseph Banks aboard the HMS endeavor in 1779, although the cultural custom of surfing most likely predates this record. The ancient Hawaiians regarded surfing, or he’e nalu (wave sliding), as an almost sacred activity to communicate with the ocean and pray for their protection and strength. I bet every single one of the surfers...